Thursday 3 November 2011

The Heldenhammer



The ship of captain Roth himself! Much happier with this one. I really like the red, which was much simpler than the way I usually paint red. I'm tempted, if I'm not sick of ships by the time this is all done, to repainted my Battlefleet Gothic stuff in this colour

Incase you haven't noticed, I've denied myself the pleasure of painting my favourite ships first (the Swordfysh and the Skarbrus). Instead, I'm working strictly through what I'll need for each scenarion, in order.

For scenario 1, Corpse Reef, I need...

The Heldenhammer
The Bloody Reaver
The sea monsters
One Cog each (not useful in the scenario, unless you get a Powder ship)
The ruler
The turning markers
The Wind marker
The islands and shipwrecks

More soon

The Bloody Reaver



Not entirely happy with how it came out, but it'll do. I wanted to use more purple than the painting guide, even though it's meant to be a mish-mash of wrecked ships, I still wanted it to be identifiable from the other side of the ocean. I found the embossed sail details difficult to get right, but towards the end I was starting to get it, so hopefully the next ship will be better.

Dreadfleet

Yarrrgh!

It's Pirate time! I bought myself Dreadfleet as a treat.


The quality of the stuff in this game is incredible. I'm not going to be painting them to a display standard, however. It's a standalone game, for playing games with. So I'm going to paint it to a decent gaming standard.

Tuesday 1 November 2011

Poor neglected blog...

...I've been updating forums as opposed to this blog, so here's a summary of pics





Also, there's a battle report, which is Here

Friday 2 September 2011

Overcoming my fear of the treekin

Treekin are awesome, both in rules and background, but I've never seen any where ive though: "yes, that looks ace"

I've done a teency bit of work on them and I think they look loads better, but the paintjob will determine how they turn out. All I've done is sharpen up their claws with sone dryad arms, and give them done height with some dryad branches





Today's progress

A bit more work on the eternal guard standard



Sunday 28 August 2011

Progress report

Just a bit of a progress report, I've painted a he'll of a lot today, it's late and dark but I took a few quick snaps anyway, await daytime pics tomorrow!

First, I've extended on of my units of glade guard from 10 to 16 strong, with command.




Also, 15 (actually 14 at the minute) eternal guard. 5 of these guys were the first models I painted for this army a few years back, hopefully you can't tell the new from the old too much


That gap will be filled by my army box BSB, who'll make a nice eternal standard.




More tomorrow

Sunday 21 August 2011

Glade Guard additions

Uuurgh...it's late and I've done lots today.

Today has mostly consisted of stripping old models, but I've done some painting too.

Just one quick pic before bed, sorry about the light. One of my units of ten Glade Guard has been extended to sixteen, including command. Theyre almost finished, but I've left the champion out of the photo, he's a special surprise


Just need to finish the gold and the bases, then pick out a few details

Thursday 18 August 2011

Oakroot- Treeman finished

Tree men. You just can't ignore them forever. Sooner or later in your wood elf army you're going to have to give up and get one.

Unfortunately, despite it's incredible background, awesome rules, great character and war hammer pedigree, we are left with this.


This is what I used for my current Treeman. It's not a bad model. But it's not an army defining, kick ass model either. Way back in White dwarf 190, I first became aware of Wood Elves after an incredible battle report. I'd never seen them before, and the treeman drew me to the army, probably for life. If I did the same now with the current tree man, would I be just as inspired? Probably not. I hoped a quick paint job and a mighty base would solve his problems, but I was wrong. He looks OK, and that's not what I want.

Here's the unavoidable faults, In my opinion.

1) the expression. I want terror. I want faces in the bark created by your mind when you're scared at night in a forest. I want malice! I get a bobbed out Tongue and a smile.

2) the 'hips'. Think about a treemans movement. In your minds eye, surely he's either lurching, or stomping. Your mighty treeman can do neither with the centre of his 'hips' thrust forward like a disco menace. Coupled with the expression, he looks like your drunken uncle out on the pull.

3) no arms. The branches are cool, but he needs two identifiable arms. Durthu had the right idea with his angry fist.

It feels good to say all this, because as a GW staff member I had to defend every model to the hilt. I had to make out it was incredible. Not that it's without it's virtues, it's size was a welcome improvement, and the bark sculpting is lovely.

So without further ado, I hereby declare that I like the oooollllddd treemen best, and will be basing mine on this fellow.

The main issue is the size. Compared to the modern treeman, the classic sculpt is closer to a treekin in size. There are two sculpts, the first with his arm raised in the air, the second with his arms wide. I won one of each on eBay for a fair price, but by some fluke I ended up with two of the second sculpt. My original plan was to use the first sculpt, and his 'slam dunk' pose would help the size problem.

So, the second sculpt (actually my favourite of the two). Whilst waiting for it in the post, I had many grand ideas about resculpting a head etc, but when it arrived, I got to see how nice this model actually is. It has tons of bark, trunk, foliage, little details, and I realised I had to do very little to it.

All I did was two simple things to increase it's height and overall mightiness. First, a huge base! Second, I pinned on a couple of dryad branches and sculpted the joins to match.


He was an absolute joy to paint, and was instantly preferable to the modern version, who I remember being a bit of a chore. Here's the finished article, Oakroot, tree-guardian of Everfall.


How does he square up to his younger cousin?



Quite well I think!

Dragon finished!

He's finished!

As with all my models I'll come back to him in a month or so and touch up any bits I'm notbappy with. I find a rested pair of eyes helps a lot. I can see already I'll have to do something with the spear tip



Looking back at the original, I think he looks a million times better. He looks important enough to ride a dragon now

Tuesday 16 August 2011

Faerie Lights In The Forest

Hi guys, it's time for another tutorial. This time, I'm going to be looking at the Asrai wood. We all get one for free, so I feel like making mine a little different.

My inspiration comes mainly from music videos that are filmed in a forest at night with strobe lighting (cherub rock by smashing pumpkins and anything can happen in the next half hour being notable examples). So, imagine, if the spites of Athel Loren could lure in their next victims with strange, mystical lights.

For this project you need a set of LED circuits. I got mine from http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com , but to be honest I'd look around for better. I chose them as they were the first the found, but the wiring is a little flimsy and I ended up ruining one circuit as the wire was too brittle. Still, I got the job done, so if you can't find any better, use these guys. They sell pre-made battery and switch sets. I bought a couple of 3Vbatteries and switches, and several red 3V LED's. I also picked up a bit of PVC tape.


Simply enough, purchase a GW wood and clean up all the pieces with a craft knife. I leave the leaves where they are and paint them on the sprue.


Most of the trunk is hollow. I pick the spots I want my lights, and I make a little hole for them. Accomplish this by sticking a knife and twisting till the hole is made


Check your LED fits into the hole


Using the same technique, make a hole in the tree base and in the bottom of the trunk for the wires to pass through.


Using a ring of green stuff and superglue, fix it in place 


Feed the wires through the hole, and glue the trunk halves together


Join all the wiring up. This is straightforward enough with my pieces, red wire to red wire, black to black


Seal up the joins with PVC tape


After that you just build and paint the wood as normal. I just did an autumn theme to match my army.

Here's some pics of the forest so far. I just need to finish the third tree and paint the bases of each tree.




You can't see in the pics cuz the light shows so bright, but it reflects off all the trunks and leaves, and looks very spooky. 



Let me know what you think!

More work on the dragon!

Almost there!

Today I've made the face mask. As I planned, I wanted to keep a half-mask, but I wanted more armour on the dragons head.

First I cut a few shaped armour plates out of black plasticard.


Heres some painted shots



I'm pretty happy with it, happier than with the leather half-mask anyway.

Friday 29 July 2011

A Dryad Dilemma

A Dryad Dilemma

Currently I have two units of eight  Dryads converted out of metal Chaos Daemonettes. They were some of the first models I did for the army and they've stood the test of time. But now I have a problem. They don't make the metal daemonettes anymore, and I'm inevitably going to want more or larger units in the future. Blister packs of them are going on eBay for ridiculous money, I'm not paying £100 to add nine core models to my army.

So the plastic Dryads then. They're great models, no doubt, but I've always struggled to paint them. If you drybrush them, it looks like you haven't bothered, if you laboriously highlight them, they either look too monotone or take years per model. Not cool for a unit that's been so effective for me in the past and is an obvious cornerstone of most armies.

Then I found Corai's wonderful forest spirit army in the asrai.org hall of fame. These guys are great as they are quick, simple, and striking. I decided to see if I could adapt the technique for an autumn theme. 

Now, the following guide may waffle a bit, but I hate guides that tell you what to do, and not how to do it, so here goes. You may also find I skip back and forth between parts of the model. This is because I've designed this process to be as time efficient as possible, and cuts down on "watching paint dry" time. 

Assemble the dryad as normal. You will see, I take care to use as many 'plain' pieces as possible, as the ones with additional leaves and details mean more work. Include them if you like, I like to add them to just one who could be a branchwraith if necessary.I mount the Dryad on a piece of stone out of the garden, with little dots of green stuff to keep it in place.


Undercoat the model chaos black. Now, using PVA glue, stick the sand to the base.


Coat the entire dryad in Denab Stone. Do it in two or three thin layers to make sure you don't obscure any detail. Also at this stage, wash the rock with watered down catachan green. When this is dry, Drybrush the entire model with a 50/50 mix of skull White and bleached bone. 


Highlight around the eye sockets, mouth, and the few branches above the forehead with skull White. Keep the paint thin and apply hardly and pressure to the brush, or you'll end up with thick garish White lines


When this is dry, take Baal Red, and apply it in patterns on the Dryad.


I try to vary it in the unit. They always get a spot on their 'core' (I.e. Centre of their torso) and 'loincloth' area, and over and spirals in the wood. The rest I make up as I go, but I avoid doing the tips of the limbs, as it tends to look like that "blood on the sword" effect that just sucks. Here are some example patterns. If they are all the same, the unit loses it's wild look.


Next, lightly drybrush the Baal red areas with fiery orange. Don't worry too much if you get little bits on surrounding areas, but try to be neat. Whilst this isn't a heavy drybrush, keep brushing over the same area till you can see the orange more than the red.


Next, lightly drybrush the same areas with bubonic brown. I stress, lightly, you still want your eyes to say 'orange' when you look at it.


Now, stain the whole model with devlan mud. With a stain, it's similar to a wash but you want the whole model to change colour with the ink. To achieve this, use the devlan mud neat from the pot, and using a large brush spread it over the areas till you have complete coverage. Use the brush to make sure areas of natural shading get a good amount of colour, but also that no bubbles form and you don't get overly thick pools. Also ink the sand with devlan mud at this point.


Whilst this is drying, overbrush the rock with scorched brown.


Then, do successive drybrushes of codex grey, fortess grey, and a light drybrush of rotting flesh. You can, when the devlan mud is dry, drybrush the sand vomit brown. Then bleached bone. Using PVA glue, attach patches of static grass to the sand. When they arrive in the post, I'll add some leaves to the bases like the rest of my army.


Now for the final stages. Drybrush the whole model LIGHTLY with bleached bone. If you get streaks you've got too much paint left on the brush and/or your applying too much pressure. Paint the eyes with regal blue/enchanted blue/ice blue/skull White. Paint Nyvleaves shining gold. Wash with devlan mud, highlight with mithril silver.

VoilĂ , a happy medium between speed and looks. I'll probably turn this unit of 12 into a unit of 16, then I can use the old dryads as smaller units, or both as big units of 15 or 16